Ferries, ferns and fellowship: a Cornwall day at St Just in Roseland

Not many days out begin with a chain ferry ride across an estuary and end with a quiz on Cornish folklore, but that was exactly the shape of the latest joint outing for members of the Oddfellows Friendly Society and the Foresters Friendly Society, along with people who belong to both.

A crossing to a hidden church

The party’s route in was itself part of the day. They crossed the River Fal aboard the King Harry Ferry, the chain ferry that has carried traffic between the Roseland Peninsula and the rest of Cornwall for well over a century, before making their way to St Just in Roseland Church for a guided visit arranged by the Redruth Antiquarians.

Glorious sunshine set the scene as members explored the churchyard and its gardens, renowned for a lush, almost Mediterranean look that has drawn admirers for generations. The celebrated writer and broadcaster Sir John Betjeman once called it “to many people the most beautiful churchyard on earth.”

Gardens with a subtropical secret

That reputation owes a great deal to the site’s sheltered, creekside position and to the horticulturists who shaped it through the 19th and early 20th centuries, among them John Garland Treseder, who helped introduce many of its exotic and subtropical plants. Tree ferns, bamboo, camellias and other unusual specimens still thrive in the mild microclimate, giving the churchyard the exotic atmosphere it is known for.

The church building itself has a long story behind it. The present structure dates from the 13th century and was dedicated to St Just on 14 August 1261, though the site’s Christian roots go back much further, to a sixth century Celtic chapel.

An older and rather more intriguing tradition also clings to the spot. Local legend holds that Joseph of Arimathea brought his young nephew, Jesus, to Cornwall, and names St Just in Roseland as one of the places where they are said to have come ashore. There is no historical evidence that the visit ever took place, but the story remains a well-loved thread in the folklore of the church and the wider Roseland Peninsula.

A holy well and a warm welcome

From the church and gardens, the group took a pleasant stroll beside the creek to St Just’s Holy Well, another layer in the site’s long history of belief and tradition.

Retracing their steps through the gardens, the party stopped for al fresco refreshments at the on-site Renwick Café before a guided tour of the new Interpretation Centre. Local guide Sue proved an excellent source of information, pointing out features of interest and fielding the many questions put to her by an enthusiastic group.

A quiz, and a very good day out

The visit’s educational side ended with a little friendly competition, a quiz built around the day’s discoveries. Carole emerged as the clear winner, with a 90 per cent success rate, and was presented with a well-deserved prize.

There was time for further refreshments and a chance to catch up before the day finally drew to a close. Beautiful scenery, fascinating history, good food, a little friendly rivalry and, above all, the fellowship between members made the visit to St Just in Roseland a thoroughly memorable one.

The Oddfellows and Foresters run joint outings like this one across Cornwall through the year, with plenty more days out to discover around the county still to come.